Reasons You Need Tractor On Your Farm

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Tractor On Your Farm

“Work vehicles won’t ever supplant a decent group of ponies!” With those words (or some statements along those lines), my granddad fixed the destiny of the Boyt Saddle and Harness Co. of Des Moines, Iowa. During the 1950s, when numerous ranchers did the switch, the possibility of a diversion homestead would have been viewed as abnormal. Cultivating was difficult work and required an intense, logical methodology.

Despite the fact that the present side interest cultivating might be low maintenance or sporting action, choosing hardware requires similar commonsense choices. Here are a couple of interesting points when purchasing a work vehicle: Think about the assignments it will perform. Greater isn’t in every case better, and a smaller 20-drive garden farm vehicle likely could be more helpful (and moderate) than a 140-torque behemoth. A front-end loader is just about a need for lifting and pulling. Contingent upon your circumstance, you may get by without four-wheel drive, however the additional utility makes it an exceptionally alluring element. Right away, here are 15 of the best motivations to claim a farm truck.

1. Brush Hogging

Cutting substantial brush or simply holding the weeds down is perhaps the most well-known positions for a farm hauler. A medium-obligation, 5-to 6-feet-wide brush hoard is fine for most field and trail upkeep, however you may choose you need a “finish trimmer” to rapidly manage the grass around the house for a fairway nail treatment. While choosing a trimmer connection, be certain that it coordinates the strength of your work vehicle.

2. Land Clearing

In the case of clearing rocks, hefty brush, trees and other flotsam and jetsam for harvests or field is on your daily agenda, a farm vehicle gives the muscle to hard work, pulling and pulling. A decent winch allows you to pull the heap to you for simpler evacuation. The determination of a 12-volt electric winch, gas-fueled winch or force departure (PTO) winch relies upon your spending plan and how much pulling you need to do. Brush pullers are uncommon utensils that join to shrubs or saplings so you can haul them out by the roots with the work vehicle or winch. The front-end loader, obviously, is helpful for pushing, lifting and conveying brush and logs. For substantial burdens, a back transporter may be exactly what you need, since it has more lift limit and puts the load on the work vehicle’s more strong back pivot.

3. Developing

Furrows, circles, seed drills and cultivators are accessible for each size farm hauler, so you can work a plot of land as seriously as you need and perhaps grow your pastime to a little truck ranch. The compost spreader is a regularly neglected instrument that can be exceptionally helpful. The drill makes planting leafy foods trees, berries and ornamentals a simple work.

4. Animals Care and Feeding

The great perceivability, huge tires and exact control permit you to situate your heap of roughage or grain with exactness to limit lifting and conveying. An average size farm truck that can move huge round feed bundles can help lessen your feed bills and save you time. In terrible climate, the farm truck likely could be the best way to get feed to domesticated animals and can be a lifeline when you need to carry an infant calf to the haven of a horse shelter during a snowstorm or cool front.

5. Crisis Transport

A flood, twister or other cataclysmic event may make streets closed. Those large farm truck wheels can drive through mud and move over flotsam and jetsam that would impede a 4WD pickup, making it a definitive “arrive” vehicle. With a front-end loader to move trash and a cutting edge to furrow and fill grooves, you will have the option to reach town for fundamental supplies, help your neighbors and empower utility groups to break through to reestablish power.

6. Finishing

Regardless of whether you are building a fish lake, holding divider or planting bushes to enhance your home, you need a farm vehicle. Utilize the front end loader of back lift to move shakes and fill soil and the sharp edge to shape the ground, level off slopes, direct seepage and fabricate little lakes. On the off chance that you have a great deal of trees and bushes to plant, think about a post-opening drill. The stone roller pushes the stones down into the ground and compacts rock on the carport to give a hard, tough surface without clearing.

7. Fence Building

Reeling out four 80-pound moves of spiked metal, just as conveying steel posts, post driver, fence cot, corner posts, post-opening digger, iron bar and digging tool, requires a Herculean exertion—or, for my situation, a “Henry” exertion, which is the thing that I affectionately call my old 8N Ford farm hauler. A steel pole mounted on the rear of the trailer fills in as a shaft for revealing the wire as you drive down the fence line.

8. Development Projects

It’s hard to envision handling any development project without a farm hauler. Boring openings goes quicker with a drill, regardless of whether for a post animal dwellingplace or setting a letter box toward the finish of the carport. The excavator is one of the coolest (and generally costly) connections you can put on a farm vehicle. Use it to burrow establishments, electric and water lines, or move sand and rock. The loader—particularly if outfitted with forks—makes brisk work of dumping building materials, moving sacks of concrete, setting rafters or brackets set up, and lifting roofing materials.

9. Kindling Friend

It’s hard to envision pulling, cutting and parting kindling without a farm truck. Sufficiently agile to explore through the forested areas and over stumps that would challenge a four-wheel-drive pickup truck, a work vehicle’s large wheels leave barely an imprint on the dirt. The most productive approach to move kindling free and clear is to cut it into reasonable lengths and burden them on a trailer for later cutting and parting; the front-end loader proves to be useful for the huge ones. There are additionally splitters that work off the farm hauler’s power through pressure and additionally PTO. In the event that you truly pay attention to your kindling, consider a ­tractor-controlled kindling processor that cuts and parts signs in a single pass at the pace of a few strings for each hour.

10. Diversion

Toss a couple of parcels on a flatbed trailer (roughage carts are incredible), and you have the makings of a hayride. Make a spot for a huge fire, bring a couple of acoustic instruments and trade stories, and you will have an occasion that your city-abiding loved ones will recollect for quite a long time.

11. Trail Maintenance

Building trails takes arranging, difficult work and the correct hardware. Regardless of whether for diversion, logging, fire control or access, you need a farm truck to fabricate them and keep them open. The work vehicle gives transport to you and your gear, and, furnished with a loader on the front and a brush hoard on the back, you can undoubtedly move hefty logs aside and cut while you assemble and clear the path. Brush heaps are incredible for natural life environment, however in the event that you discover the measure of brush overpowering, you may decide on a PTO-controlled lively/shredder, which decreases the brush to an advantageous size for mulch or manure.

12. Reaping

Reaping typically includes driving the farm hauler down lines to pull your abundance back to the house. On the off chance that you intend to collect your own feed, utilized sickle bar trimmers, feed rakes and square baling machines are regularly accessible at a sensible cost. There is additionally specific gear, including tree shakers for nut trees and potato diggers.

13. Snow Removal

After a blizzard, a farm vehicle (once more, ideally four-wheel-drive), front-end loader and edge, can be vital for uncover yourself and your neighbors, make a way to the animal dwellingplace, do a little street clearing, and even haul a vehicle or two out of the jettison. Tire chains are discretionary, however are particularly useful on ice.

14. Reinforcement Power

Your work vehicle can fill in as a portable force to be reckoned with. Associate a 110-volt inverter to your farm vehicle battery for a force supply that will run saws, drills, lights, PCs and correspondence hardware. A profound cycle battery and high-­capacity alternator will broaden the force yield. The farm vehicle is likewise a decent method to move a generator to where it is required. You can likewise buy a PTO-fueled generator that runs straightforwardly off the farm hauler.

15. Face It: You Want One!

With the astonishing adaptability and utility of homestead farm haulers, there is in all likelihood one that fills your requirements. Vintage farm haulers, for example, my 8N Ford, are accessible at a sensible cost, yet more up to date work vehicles with four-wheel-drive, hydrostatic transmissions and warmed/cooled taxis (sound system discretionary) are more easy to understand.

There is in no way like being in a farm truck seat and feeling the force flood through it as the motor falters, murmurs or potentially thunders (contingent upon the work vehicle) to life, at that point lifting twelve 50-pound sacks of feed with a simple push of a switch or cutting 5 sections of land in a matter of hours.



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How to Fertilize Fruit Trees With Chicken Droppings

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Fertilize Fruit Trees

Is Chicken Manure Good for Fruit Trees?

Developing delightful natural product is difficult work and each spring, subsequent to rising up out of torpidity, your eager organic product trees will require a supplement rich lift to assist fuel with leafing development, and bloom and natural product arrangement. Be that as it may, with regards to compost, is chicken excrement the correct decision?

In this blog we’ll investigate the advantages and disadvantages of chicken crap and when it may be advantageous to utilize while mulching your organic product trees.

At the point when Chicken Manure is Bad For Plants

“With regards to treating natural product trees, utilizing crude and un-treated the soil chicken excrement is definitely not a smart thought.”

Chicken excrement has been utilized to take care of plants for quite a long time yet part of what makes this compost so incredible is likewise what makes it conceivably harming to plants. New chicken excrement is a wet, stinky blend of both crap and fluid that is high in alkali.

The alkali can separate into nitrogen – and makes chicken fertilizer so malodorous. All plants need nitrogen as a development promoter. An excess of nitrogen in natural product trees spikes the lively development of branches to the detriment of blossoms. Furthermore, without any blossoms, there’s no delightful organic product.

So with regards to treating organic product trees, utilizing crude and un-treated the soil chicken compost is certifiably not a smart thought.

At the point when Chicken Manure is Good for Plants

The following choice is maybe utilizing treated the soil chicken compost which you can buy from your nearby nursery place in packs, or get from a neighborhood ranch.

In case you’re treating the soil your own chicken fertilizer, you need to be certain that the new crap is treated the soil with a liberal measure of carbon-rich straw or other sheet material. Likewise with any treating the soil you need a mix of carbon and nitrogen to make the ideal condition for soil organisms to get the chance to work.

As the chicken compost sits for some time, the microorganisms in the dirt separate it into supplements our natural product trees can assimilate and utilize. While this otherworldly fertilizing the soil cycle occurs, a portion of the abundance nitrogen dissipates as alkali gas. The chicken manure should be turned a few times and specialists propose the blend age for at any rate a half year before applying to natural product trees and plants.

In the wake of treating the soil, the chicken excrement will have modest quantities of the three key supplements NPK all plants need including nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

Chicken fertilizer sneaks up suddenly than treated the soil excrement from different creatures. Here’s the reason: sheep, dairy animals and other treated the soil compost are about 1% N, 1% P and 1% K by weight. Chicken fertilizer, then again, can arrive at 5% N, 3% P and 2% K by weight.

As another reward, fertilizer from egg laying hens contains more calcium by weight on account of the eggshell creation measure. Calcium reinforces the cells in organic product, shoots and roots for more beneficial and more delicious and succulent organic product.

So for a characteristic item, it appears you have a great deal to pick up and little to lose when spreading a modest quantity of treated the soil chicken compost over the underlying foundations of your natural product trees.

Dried Chicken Manure

Treated the soil appropriately and utilized with some restraint, chicken fertilizer can be incredible for your natural product trees. Yet, there is another alternative that has been created by an inventive Quebec-based organization called Acti-Sol.

Acti-Sol produces dried hen excrement composts. Their composts don’t smell in light of the fact that the fertilizer is dried before it can frame alkali. Plantation People is glad to have this organization as a backer for our data stuffed natural product tree care web recording “The Urban Forestry Radio Show”.

The Quebec-based organization utilizes an interesting dryer framework – directly at the henhouse—to rapidly dry out new hen droppings. This prevents rotten smelling salts from shaping, and deserts a top notch, characteristic manure that won’t hurt your plants.

Acti-Sol’s items are affirmed for natural farming. They just use compost from egg-laying hens that are not treated with hormones or anti-infection agents. Thus, ranchers, just as wellbeing cognizant home plant specialists, can sprinkle Acti-Sol hen compost on their natural yields.

So How Much Chicken Manure Should You Use on Your Trees

On the off chance that you are utilizing treated the soil chicken excrement, start with spreading only one inch of the manure around the underlying foundations of your tree in the late-winter and perceive how it influences your trees development and creation.

You might need to pick the plan explicitly for natural product trees that is 4% nitrogen, 6% phosphorus and 8% potassium by weight (search for 4-6-8 and photographs of natural product trees on the bundle). Acti-Sol included bone feast and regular potash to its multipurpose composting chicken manure to address the issues of persevering organic product trees. The additional increase in phosphorus and potassium assists with bloom bud and natural product arrangement

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Rabbits and Rabbit Breeding

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Rabbit Breeding

Rabbits are animals from the hare family. This name unites several genera of mammals. The body of the rabbit is oval in shape, from 20 to 50 cm in length, a characteristic feature is long, more than 10 cm, ears and a short, fur-covered tail. Rabbits have large and powerful hind legs, pushing off with which, they can move in leaps, making long jumps. On the front paws of rabbits there are 5 clawed toes, the hind paws have 4 toes ending in claws. Weight indicators start from 400 grams. Large representatives can weigh more than 2 kg. Rabbits have a lifespan of approximately 10 years. These animals have soft and long fur that can be white, gray, brown, black and combinations of different shades of these colors.

The habitats of wild rabbits are meadows, forests and deserts. They also settle in wetlands. Rabbits are widespread on almost all continents. Found in southwestern Europe, southeast Asia, Africa, America. Colonists brought rabbits to Australia, and they began to multiply there so rapidly that the government was forced to take special measures to protect the forests and the fauna inhabiting them from the harm that wild rabbits could cause, devouring young shoots of trees and displacing some species of local animals. In the wild nature of Eurasia, hares of various breeds are mostly found. Rabbits are bred in industrial animal husbandry, in household plots and as domestic animals. There are various breeds of decorative rabbits.

Rabbit breeding

Rabbits are favorably distinguished from other farm animals by fertility, early maturity and wide possibilities of using the products obtained from them. An adult female may have up to 4-6 births during the year. There are 6-8 cubs in one okrol. Some productive females can bring 12-15 young rabbits in one round. Parameters depend on the breed and differ in flanders, giants, lop-eared rams and other meat breeds.

Rabbits are bred in order to obtain dietary meat and raw materials for light industry. In addition, rabbits are often used as a laboratory animal in medicine, veterinary medicine, and biology. There is a World Association for Scientific Rabbit Breeding with headquarters in Paris.

Rabbit products are partially obtained during the life of the animals. These are wool, fluff, manure, nest fluff. After the slaughter of the animal, the skin, meat and fluff are obtained. This raw material is used in the food, knitwear, fur-processing and felt industries. Depending on various factors, which include both the intensity of economic use and the influence of the external environment, as well as breed characteristics and hereditary inclinations, products with different qualitative and quantitative characteristics are obtained. In accordance with the tasks of the farm, breeding rabbits of various breeds are raised or bought in nurseries and they are bred in pits, cages or aviaries.

In addition, we have prepared detailed reviews on the topics: is it profitable to breed rabbits, the profitability of rabbit farming (including an example of monetary calculations), as well as an overview of rabbit farming as a business, including business plans. We can definitely say that there is money in this area of ​​agriculture, the main thing is to approach the matter competently and thoroughly. This site contains detailed materials covering absolutely all areas of breeding and keeping rabbits, both at home and on the farm. We’ve covered everything from where to start, how to succeed in this business, as well as technical issues, including rabbit cages, breed selection, feeding, breeding, treatment and care. This will help you become a competent professional and avoid all common beginner mistakes.

Categories: Animals

Maintenance and Breeding of Ostriches

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Maintenance and Breeding of Ostriches

Growing ostriches at home is still a rather exotic occupation, although breeding more recently rare quails, pheasants, meat pigeons and guinea fowls is no longer surprising.

Raising ostriches is a relatively new business idea, of all types of poultry, these giants have only recently been maintained by farmers for commercial purposes, but such farms are developing intensively.

Large and small ostrich farms are opened in many countries of the world. From poultry, they get expensive feathers, leather and delicious meat, which are in great demand on the international market.


The ostrich (Struthio Camelis) is the largest bird in nature, producing incredibly large eggs weighing about 1.5 kg. They are running birds, cannot fly and are also called flat-chested, since they lack a pronounced keel, and the organs of the chest are closed by a flat sternum.

The only species included in the genus of ostriches is the African ostrich, which is most popular for keeping in captivity, less often related species – Australian emu and common cassowary – are born. It is about the features of the content of the African ostrich that will be discussed in this article.

There are varieties of the African ostrich with black, pink and blue necks.

Black ostriches are obtained by crossing Malay and South African subspecies and are best suited for breeding in cold regions. This variety has long been bred in a farm environment. Many years of selection in the livestock have been fixed positive qualities for poultry – quick wits, docility and adaptability.

Pink-necked ostriches are large, but not overly friendly and relatively less productive.

The blue-necked variety shows moderate productivity, a high fence is needed to keep this bird, but the individuals are docile and reproduce well.

Sexually mature males of the African ostrich weigh from 110 to 150 kg, the live weight of females reaches 120 kg. Long, muscular legs and a graceful neck hold the head 1.8 to 2.5 meters above ground level, this impressive height should be kept in mind when building poultry houses and pens.

The eyes of ostriches are huge, somewhat disproportionate to a relatively small head, the eyelids are covered with long pubescence, which prevents dust from entering the eyes. The movable third eyelid, in turn, perfectly protects the eye, moisturizing and cleaning the surface. The ears are represented by holes on the sides of the head and are covered by membranes.

The beak is medium-sized, strong, in males during the mating season it becomes red, and the skin of the legs also turns red.

The legs are well developed, muscular, fledgling. One of the differences between the African ostrich is the presence of two fingers, the emu has three fingers, and the rhea has four.

The skull bones are thin, fragile and can be damaged by the smallest impact, which must be considered when caring for the bird and setting up the house.

The wings are the pride and decoration of the bird, the span is about two meters. They are strong, mobile, used by the bird as a rudder for rapid turns when running, in mating games, when sorting out relationships and defending against predators, as well as to create shade for ostriches.

Adult plumage appears only by one and a half to two years. In males, black or chocolate body plumage is complemented by white wing and tail feathers. In females, the color is inconspicuous, grayish-brown, feathers on the wings are in transverse black stripes, tail feathers are gray in spots.

The adaptability of the African ostrich is amazing – this bird is able to withstand the scorching sun and temperatures up to +50 ° C, at the same time it feels great in European latitudes at temperatures of + 10-12 ° C and even frosts down to -15-16 ° C.

Despite their gigantic size, they are not distinguished by high intelligence, but they have sharp eyesight and excellent hearing. Being the prey of predators, the bird is very shy and, having noticed a threat, one of the representatives of the group can disturb the whole herd, which will lead to injury and injury. This feature is worth considering. You need to look after and communicate with them calmly and somewhat slowly. In addition, ostriches are a powerful bird that, under stress, can cause serious injury to a person by hitting a muscular leg.


Keeping ostriches at home is possible in one of three ways – intensive in poultry houses, extensive in walking and semi-intensive, which is a combination of the first two methods.

The intensive method is more acceptable when the territory is limited, while the extensive method is the closest to the natural habitat and makes it possible to grow sustainable livestock, partially saving feed through foraging.

In cold climates, it is better to use the third method, which will allow you to keep the bird in the house in severe frosts, and release it for walking the rest of the year.

The poultry house for keeping ostriches is built high – at least a meter higher than the height of the bird, that is, at least 3-3.5 m in height. A room is being built on an elevated area without a close occurrence of groundwater, from reliable materials that allow you to retain heat and create insulation from drafts – bricks, cinder blocks, logs.

In winter, the indoor temperature is not allowed to fall below -5 ° C, while an important element of successful cultivation is the absence of dampness and stuffiness in the air, which can be achieved by equipping the ventilation system.

The territory of the poultry house is determined at the rate of at least 10 sq. m. for one bird. The room is divided into sections for each family, which are completed according to the principle for one male – two or three females. At the same time, a room with a size of at least 12×10 m is needed to keep a couple.

A deep bedding of straw or shavings is laid on the floors, avoiding the use of small sawdust, since ostriches react negatively to excessive dustiness in the air.

The walks are built as spacious as possible, enclosing them with a mesh fence with a height of at least 2.5 m, planted on a foundation that will not allow foxes, dogs or other predators that can scare a bird into the enclosure. In this case, the support posts are placed on the outside of the corrals. The approximate size of the range for keeping ostriches in an extensive way is about 1 hectare per 8-10 individuals.

In the walking area, several sheds are placed to protect the bird from rain, bunker feeders for feed mixtures, wooden nursery feeders for hay and grass, and drinkers are installed. Homemade feeders are made of wood, in the form of troughs about 120 cm long and up to 20 cm deep.

Hanging feeders are convenient, which allow the bird not to bend to the ground for food. For these purposes, you can use a car tire cut in half. In the bottom of such a trough, holes are drilled for rainwater to drain, and then suspended at a height of 0.5-1 m above the ground surface. To prevent moisture from entering the feed, simple sheds can be provided above the feeders.

Ostriches are curious and can swallow small shiny objects, including nails, glass and pieces of wire, so the area should be carefully cleaned of such debris.

Drinking bowls are built with a length of at least 80 cm and a depth of about 15-20 cm, replacing the water every day. The number of drinkers is determined on the basis that an adult bird drinks up to 10 liters of water per day. Ostriches are fond of swimming in hot weather; for these purposes, they place troughs of water.

Breeding ostriches

The ostrich becomes sexually mature at the age of 4-5 years, the female earlier – when it reaches two years. Egg-laying lasts from March and lasts until late autumn, and the egg-laying period itself is generally about 8 months.

With the maintenance of two families, consisting of two males and four females, 120-150 ostriches can be obtained per year. Difficulties with breeding ostriches at home lie in incubation, which, due to the large size of the eggs, is associated with well-known difficulties and the purchase of an expensive incubator. Although it is possible to use natural incubation of eggs under the hen, in the role of which are the ostriches themselves.

During natural incubation, the harem females alternately lay eggs in the nest, which is a hole in the soil, which it is desirable to expand, deepen and sprinkle with fresh sand. A typical clutch is about twenty eggs; the female and the male incubate it, which predominantly warms the clutch at night. In the future, the male is actively involved in raising ostriches. The duration of incubation depends on the air temperature and the size of the eggs, but the average is about 42 days.

Only after emerging from the egg, the ostriches quickly dry up, they are covered with dense pubescence, are active and, being hatched by a brood hen, are taken away from the nest by adult ostriches in two or three hours.

Keeping young ostriches is one of the most difficult stages of breeding this bird, especially during the first six months, when chicks are especially susceptible to temperature fluctuations, lack of fresh air, and dampness. The survival rate of chicks in the first year of life is only 70-80%, and if the necessary conditions are not met, it can drop to 40-50%.

Good lighting plays an important role – the bird sees objects in the distance perfectly, and when kept in a confined space and at dusk, young animals may partially lose their sight or even completely.

Ostriches are placed on a deep bed, infrared lamps are placed, ensuring the temperature under the heaters is within 30-32 ° C and in the poultry house space – at least 25 ° C. Gradually, the temperature is lowered by the age of a month, the temperature under the heater should be at least 28- ° C, and in the room – about 23 ° C. In sunny weather, chicks older than two weeks are released into pens.

Youngsters are planted in pens freely, according to age:

  • up to three months 1-5 sq. m per head;
  • 3-6 months 10-30 sq. m. on the head;
  • 6-12 months 50 sq. m. on the head;
  • over a year – from 250 sq. m per head.

When organizing a corral, an area of ​​at least 50 m is allocated so that the ostriches can run.

In the first week of life, young animals reduce their live weight, and this is normal for this species of bird. But already from the second week, intensive growth begins – ostriches gain 200 g of weight every day and by three months the weight is up to 15 kg.

At the age of two months, the young are transferred to a walking room, calculating the space from 1-1.5 square meters per individual in the area under a canopy, and from 3 square meters. m per individual on the walk. Further, they expand the walking space, following the above standards.

The fattening period for ostriches lasts about 10 months, the weight at the end of the term should be 110-120 kg. With winter fattening, the waiting period is extended to one year. As a result, when a fattened ostrich is slaughtered, a meat carcass of up to 60 kg, more than 1 square meter of valuable skin and about 2 kg of feathers are obtained.

Dear readers, you have the opportunity to send us your full story about the peculiarities of keeping and breeding poultry using our contact form. If you are a breeder and sell young animals or eggs, you can put this information as well, and do not forget to indicate the region of residence and contact information.


Categories: Poultry

All a Farmer Needs to Know About Sheep Breeding

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Sheep Breeding

Breeding sheep and rams is a good chance for a novice farmer to find their niche in the livestock business. These animals are hardy, have excellent health and are able to demonstrate high performance indicators even with poor feeding.

Moreover, this type of livestock is versatile. Breeding brightly allows you to get meat, wool and milk equally. In this article we will try to answer all your questions. How to start a business, how to feed and care for these amazing animals. Read More

Categories: Animals